Big Night

by Stephen Farber

Big Night belongs to the small subgenre of movies (like Babette's Feast) that revel in food. The heroes are two immigrant brothers struggling to create a restaurant. Tony Shalhoub is the chef who refuses to compromise to please the customers; Stanley Tucci is the businessman trying to meld art and commerce. Both actors are splendid, and there's a delicious comic turn by Ian Holm as their vulgar rival. The film offers many tasty tidbits, but it feels distended and a bit too delighted with its own modest charms.

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